Hanamikoji Street - Gion's Teahouse Row

A stop on Kyoto: Higashiyama and Gion on Foot, a free self-guided tour.

The red-walled house on the corner is the Ichiriki teahouse, in business for roughly three centuries. The story goes that Oishi Kuranosuke, leader of the 47 ronin, played the drunken idler here in 1702 to throw off suspicion before their famous revenge; a hit 1748 puppet play set a scene in this house and made it a legend in its own right.

Now look south down Hanamikoji. This is Gion Kobu, the largest of Kyoto's geisha districts. The ochaya teahouses behind latticed fronts entertain by introduction only. Partway down, the Gion Kobu Kaburenjo is the district's own theater and the traditional home of the Miyako Odori, a spring dance performance staged since 1872.

Local rules matter here. Stay on Hanamikoji itself: the narrow side lanes are private, and signs warn of a fine of up to 10,000 yen for entering them. If you see a geiko or maiko, let her pass, and do not photograph her without permission.

Getting here: Leave the shrine by the West Gate, cross Higashioji-dori and walk west on the left side of Shijo-dori about four minutes to the red-walled corner house at Hanamikoji.

Did you know?: Since 1986 the city has removed the utility poles along Hanamikoji, part of why the street looks so uncluttered compared with most of urban Japan.

Photo op: From the edge of the street near the Kaburenjo, frame the line of lattice fronts and lanterns running north; watch for taxis, which still use the street.

More on Wikipedia: Ichiriki Chaya · Gion · Oishi Yoshio · Miyako Odori

Hanamikoji Street - Gion's Teahouse Row

Stops on this tour