Unhyeongung - Where a Boy King Grew Up

A stop on Seoul Palaces, Bukchon and Insadong, a free self-guided tour.

This modest compound of tiled roofs was never an official palace, yet it shaped the last decades of the Joseon dynasty. King Gojong was born here in 1852 and grew up inside these walls. In 1864, when the previous king died without a son, the boy, not yet a teenager, was chosen for the throne.

Because Gojong was so young, his father, Yi Ha-eung, ruled as regent with the title Heungseon Daewongun. He kept running the country from this house, and he was the man behind the great rebuilding of Gyeongbokgung you saw at the start of this walk.

In 1866 Gojong married a young woman of the Min clan here, in the hall called Norakdang. She became Queen Min, later honored as Empress Myeongseong, one of the most powerful and tragic figures of the era. Today the house is a historic site, and reenactments of the royal wedding are staged here in spring and autumn. Step into the courtyards and picture the bustle of a regent's household.

Getting here: From Donhwamun, walk west along Yulgok-ro to Anguk Station, then turn left onto Samil-daero; the entrance to Unhyeongung is a short way down on the left.

Did you know?: The family lost the house under Japanese rule, got it back in 1948, and the city of Seoul bought it in 1993 to preserve it.

Photo op: In the inner courtyard, frame Norakdang's wooden porch and curving eaves from a corner of the yard.