Maxwell Food Centre - Lunch, Hawker Style

Maxwell Food Centre - Lunch, Hawker Style

Photo: Aaaatu, CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped)

A stop on Singapore: Marina Bay to Chinatown, a free self-guided tour.

End where Singaporeans themselves go: a hawker centre. Maxwell opened in 1928 as a market and became a cooked-food centre in 1987, when hawkers from nearby China Square moved in, part of Singapore's long effort to move street vendors into clean, licensed stalls. Today about a hundred stalls serve Chinese, Malay and Indian dishes under one roof, and in 2020 UNESCO added Singapore's hawker culture to its list of the world's intangible cultural heritage.

The star here is Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice: poached chicken over rice cooked in chicken stock, with chili and ginger sauces. The queue moves fast. Also look for Fuzhou oyster cakes, satay and herbal soups.

Hawker manners: find a seat first, and if you see a packet of tissues, an umbrella or a lanyard on a table, it is taken - locals "chope," or reserve, seats this way. Many stalls take cash only, so carry small notes. Return your tray and dishes to the tray-return station when you finish; it is required by law here.

Getting here: Walk south along South Bridge Road about two minutes and cross at the lights; Maxwell Food Centre is the open-sided hall at the corner of Maxwell Road.

Did you know?: In 2016 Tian Tian became the first stall at Maxwell to receive a Michelin Bib Gourmand.

Photo op: Step back to the Maxwell Road side and frame the long rows of stall signs and the lunchtime crowd - but ask before photographing any cook at work.