Jogyesa Temple - Buddhist Calm in the City Center

Jogyesa Temple - Buddhist Calm in the City Center

Photo: Sadopaul, CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped)

A stop on Seoul Palaces, Bukchon and Insadong, a free self-guided tour.

A few steps from the shopping streets, the noise drops and incense drifts across the courtyard of Jogyesa, the head temple of the Jogye Order, the largest Buddhist order in Korea. Under the Joseon kings, Confucianism was the state creed and Buddhism was pushed out of the capital, so a major temple in the heart of Seoul is itself a sign of changed times.

The great hall, Daeungjeon, was completed in 1938 and is one of the largest Buddhist halls in the city. Inside sit three large golden Buddhas. You are welcome to look in quietly from the doorway; take off your shoes if you enter, and do not photograph people at prayer.

In the courtyard stand two old trees: a white-barked lacebark pine around 500 years old and a large Chinese scholar tree. In spring, around the Buddha's birthday, the courtyard is hung with colorful lanterns, and the Lotus Lantern Festival parade along Jongno makes its way here.

Getting here: From Ssamziegil, follow the side lanes west to Ujeongguk-ro and cross the street to the temple gate, about five minutes away.

Did you know?: Until 1954 the temple went by a different name, Taegosa.

Photo op: Stand at a far corner of the courtyard to frame Daeungjeon's painted eaves with the old pine in front of it - and in lantern season, look up.